CALIFORNIA

Our main purpose of going to the Northern part of Death Valley National Park is to see Race Track Playa. The first time I and my hubby saw a picture of Race Track Playa and learning its amazing geology, we dreamed about going there. Unfortunately for me and my hubby, we were not very confident with our driving skills that when we were told we would be driving on tough dirt road that we decided to visit it sometime later. However, since we spent gas and time already driving from the Southern portion of Death Valley to North, we decided to make the most of our drive instead. We decided to visit the Ubehebe Crater and Scotty’s Castle. Despite not making it to Racetrack, I am glad we still made our way to the Northern Death Valley region. For the sight near Ubehebe Crater is something that I treasure and behold. It is vast, deep, it is like our mother Earth showing us her natural color when she is devoid of vegetation, undressed, naked, yet starkly beautiful.

Magical Colors of the Exposed Earth, near Ubehebe Crater, Death Valley

Looking at this scenery, I can’t help it always but be almost in tears, the gratitude towards the life given to me overflows. The appreciation for our existence on Earth, and for God to allow us to thrive marvelously in different conditions. I was simply standing there, looking at the different kind of beauty I have never seen in my life. Standing and grasping all my Chemical knowledge that God also gifted us with, to understand why the Earth looks such. In my silence, my hubby would hold my hand, and say, “Beautiful! A different kind of beauty! It is not green, that we oftentimes used to see. But now we know, Earth is not only beautiful when it is green! It is as beautiful naked.” And I would add, “Thanks God for the greens, for nourishing our body. Thanks God also for the exposed colored layers of the earth for nourishing our spirits.” Being up close to the magnificent power of nature always bring me a positive feeling of gratitude to our Creator and a yearning for understanding, so we all can live harmoniously in our beautiful but fragile world.

White Desert Holly on Black Volcanic Sand Against the Exposed Colored Earth, near Ubehe Crater

We actually spent a lot of time in this space just looking at the sight above, we know we are not at Ubehebe Crater yet, and this place is maybe “un-named”, and a lot of cars passing us (notice the highway not too far below) by going to Ubehebe and Racetrack (still a dream for me to go there someday). Some people would stop their cars as well, walk to where we were standing, look out at what we were looking, snap a picture, sometimes, some would stare at us as if asking “what is special in this place that you seem to be stuck there?”, and then, leave us . Sometimes, what I find funny when I am in this silent retrospection, a tourist would approach us and ask, “excuse me, would you mind to take me/us a picture?” My hubby knows I prefer silence whenever he sees me on that mode, and he would jump in and say, ” I won’t mind! I can take your picture!” And they go photoshooting, while I still keep my silence. Maybe that is the reason why some people would prefer going to Death Valley in the summer despite the heat, for maybe, they prefer utmost silence. However, for us who can not endure heat and want our visit pleasant, we go when Death Valley is no longer the hottest place on Earth, when its high is only in 50s or 60s only the night is also cold at 30s or 20s. But it is at this time of the year where a lot of tourists also would swarm in Death Valley.

After sometime of taking in the stark desert beauty in front of us, we finally left the place and move to Ubehebe Crater.

Walking along the Rim of Ubehebe Crater to Little Ubehebe

The Ubehebe Crater system actually contains several volcanic craters, cinder cones and ash hills resulting from explosive steam eruption about 2,000 to 6,000 years ago. Ubehebe is the largest amongst the volcanic craters in the area.  

Ubehebe Crater

Ubehebe is 2,400 feet in diameter and 500 feet deep, and presents a very colorful spectacle with variegated, buckled strata around its sides and grey-black ash on the rim.

White Desert Holly and Black Ash

Ubehebe Crater has a trail around the rim and a steep path down, however, the trail down does not look too exciting for us so we did not go down, instead, we walked along the rim of the Craters.

After Ubehebe, we went to Scotty’s Castle. Yes, there is a castle in Death Valley, which is a window into the life and times of the roaring 20s and depression 30s.

Scotty’s Castle

The castle is hidden in the green oasis of Grapevine Canyon.

Cottonwoods and Palms

Desert Oasis always is magical to me, when the surrounding desert are almost barren, yet it has its spot of vegetation. No wonder why this place was chosen by a rich Chicago businessman who had interest then in desert gold strike tales. Though gold had never been found, a castle was built.

Scotty’s Castle

Scotty’s Castle

To read about the story of Scotty’s Castle, please click http://www.nps.gov/deva/historyculture/scottys-castle.htm .

On our way back to Stovepipe Village, the drive was a once in a lifetime experience, something that we don’t see often, it is hard for me to put into words the vastness I saw. Death Valley is just so vast, and seeing that immense space as far as your eyes can see without a hint of civilization is in fact overwhelming. It is like seeing all the great subdivisions of geological time represented by rocks, sand dunes, and colored exposed earth. From an almost barren low elevation, you see the changing environment where plants thrive more in places which get more rain and snow.

Life and Death, low elevation, in Death Valley

At lower elevation, it is like, a battle of life and death, and the picture above is what I captured to describe it. The best time to visit Death Valley is late November to Early April. If you want to see how a desert valley almost devoid of life come out with bursting color from the carpeting wildflowers, the best time would be by February or March, but you have to check for the update in the park since the wildflowers, just like the fall foliage, leaves as soon as it comes. But the desert foliage from wildflowers is truly a spectacular show, it is not just a dozen fowers, it is a million buds in the wild carpeting the valley floor.

From the alpine forest region of Inyo County at Bishop Creek Canyon, we move to Inyo County’s barren land at Mesquite Sand Dunes, Death Valley National Park.

Mesquite Sand Dunes, Death Valley National Park

From the  blazing colors of autumnal hues , we move to the subdued tones of the earth and sky.

Mesquite Sand Dunes, Sunset

Mesquite Sand Dunes, Sunset

Death Valley is more popularly known for its soaring temperature, the 2nd highest temperature recorded in the world is at Furnace Creek area of Death Valley. Though summer temperature can soar to over one hundred degrees, but from late fall to early spring, the temperatures are pleasant. In fact, during winter, the daytime high is in the 50s- 60s (15- 18 oC) and night time low is in the mid 20s - 30s ( 0 – 5 oC) , just perfect for enjoying the park. Reported temperatures in Death Valley are located in Furnace Creek area which is at low elevation, but Death Valley National Park also includes the mountains bordering it in almost all sides. The higher elevation of Death Valley during wintertime has daytime high in the 40s- 50s ( 5 – 10 oC) and nighttime low in the 20s ( 0 oC to -10oC). Though summer temperatures soar beyond one hundred at low elevation, but the higher elevation remains cooler providing a relief for its wildlife. Best time to visit Death Valley is from late fall to early spring, when the temperature is cooler. At this time of the year, you see the similarity between low elevation and high elevation, that is, they both look white but from different reasons. The low elevation looks white from the salt deposits, whereas the high elevation looks white from the snow covered slopes.

Old Mequite Sand Dunes, late afternoon

Death Valley got its name from a small group of white emigrants who in 1849 ( The Forty-Niners ) wanted to make a short cut to the gold fields of California. Prior to their discovery of Death Valley, the area is inhabited by Panamint Indians. Their crossing of the valley marked the beginning of the turbulent history of Death Valley and its mountains. Despite its name, Death Valley offers magnificent diversity beyond compare.

Sand Dunes, Early Morning

There are varied geological formations in Death Valley to explore and experience. For geologists, Death Valley is their Disneyland. One of the more visited region of Death Valley are the Sand Dunes. The most accessible sand dunes in Death Valley National Park are in Stovepipe Wells tucked into the Mequite Flat in the North end of the park. Mesquite Sand Dunes are almost surrounded by mountains in all sides.

Mountain Bordering Sand Dunes, Sunset

Mountain Bordering Sand Dunes, Sunset

For the geology of sand dunes, please click here to go to the Death Valley Dune geology.

A hike into the Mesquite Sand Dunes can be a long one or a short one, can be arduous or easy, as there is no formal trail. The hike is up to you how you want to make it. The highest dune in this area is at 140 ft, and a hike to it requires climbing a series of smaller dunes.

Sand Dunes Hike

Sand Dunes Hike

The height and shape of the dunes vary daily due to shifting winds and gravity. Hiking in sand dunes call for patience, as it is challenging to walk here at your normal pace. The burrowing sand definitely slows you down, but definitely this is a fun and relaxing walk.

On Top of Tallest Dune

On Top of Tallest Dune

Sand Dunes like these takes thousand of years to form. Flash floods and speeding storm waters would send tiny grains of quartz and feldspar from the weathered rocks and boulders up high in the mountains into the valley floor.

Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes

The aridity of Death Valley would dry out these tiny grains fast and the wind will blow the sand but they get stuck when they reach insurmountable obstacle. The sand then piles up, forming ripples and dunes.

Avoid the sand dunes during mid-day even in winter for the sand easily heats up. Best time to enjoy the sand dunes is either at early morning or late afternoon. For seeing ripples and animal tracks, the best time to visit is early morning.

On Top of Tallest Dune at Stovepipe

Happy sand boarding!

More of Death Valley National Park Wonders in Inyo County to come…….